Desenzano del Garda is the final stop on this leg of our tour of Italy as we return ‘home’ for five weeks in August. (By ‘home’ I mean the UK, as having sold our house in January, we have no home). Apart from, of course, seeing friends and family, I am looking forward to cooler temperatures, tea (over-priced here and very little selection) local walks (we’ve had wonderfully challenging walks, but have struggled to find any other kind) and hearing English around me. There is certainly a lot we will miss – the sunshine and blue skies, reasonably-priced meals out, cappuccino (much creamier than back home) gelato and being able to buy a glass of good wine for €4 (and you are always served what would be a ‘large’ glass back in the UK).

It was rather a hazy day when I took this, but I have always found the combination of water and mountains stunning.
Our Airbnb accommodation is not a holiday apartment, but a home someone haas moved out of for a few weeks. With all the owner’s personal knick-knacks and treasured possessions around I feel as if we are trespassers, I think I prefer staying in less personal space. On the plus side, the owner was so horrified that we didn’t have a car, that she has given us the use of hers for our first two weeks, when she is away. This is a real bonus as we are more remote than we had realised – 45 minutes’ walk from the train station and Desenzano centre.
Desenzano is rightly proud of the part it has played in the history of aviation. Between 1913 and 1931 the Schneider trophy for seaplanes was contested around the world and won three times by Italy. The contest came to an end in 1931 following three consecutive wins by the British (in 1927, 1929 and 1931) as under the trophy rules the first country to win three times within five years would permanently win the trophy. (It is now on display in the Science Museum in London).

On the occasion of the last race, in 1931, the Italian entry had engine problems and failed to start, but later went on to set two new world records, in flights over Lake Garda. In April 1933 the aircraft flew at 424 mph, only to break it eighteen months later flying a speed of 440 mph. This remains the fastest speed ever attained by a piston-engined seaplane

I have the impression that this time was a bit of a heyday for Desenzano and have seen several houses built in Italian Liberty style.
