While two of the four coastal paths between the villages of the Cinque Terre are closed due to landslides (and one wonders if they will ever open again) it is still possible to walk between all the villages using higher marked paths (no need to buy a pass when walking them either). Having already visited Riomaggiore and Manarola (we are visiting them in order starting with the most easterly) we planned to walk the higher path from Manarola to Corniglia (pronounced Cornelia) yesterday evening in an attempt to avoid the worst of the day’s heat.
Corniglia is the oldest of the Cinque Terre villages and the only one not directly on the coast. Perched on its rocky promontory, it can be seen from all the other Terre.
We first had the steep climb out of Manarola, the most exhausting part of the walk, and although it was early evening, it was still very hot.
After about twenty-five minutes, when we were still only half-way up, a friendly descending American called out, ‘Nearly there!’ I soon realised this was a fib, and put it down to motivational banter.
Eventually, we did indeed reach the top of the slope where the small settlement of Volastra sits. After a cool drink, we continued for a distance along terraces of vines before descending to Corniglia.
From the village it was a mere 377 steps down to the station. Incidentally, there is also a shuttle bus, but wanting to complete the whole journey on foot, we didn’t take it. It was only while waiting for the train that the heat and exertions of the walk caught up with me. Still very hot, we are enjoying a ‘rest’ day today.
Tortoise Travel 