It was the Ancient Greeks who first carved steps out of the steep cliffs to connect the two settlements of Capri and Anacapri (which means ‘above Capri’).
These have been restored many times over the centuries up until the most recent time, in 1998. Apparently, it used to be a normal part of daily life for women in Anacapri to walk down all 921 of these steps, laden with produce to sell, to the port of Marina Grande.
On the way back up to Anacapri they would carry fresh water. There is a photograph in my guide book, dating from about 1920, of a woman on the steps, barefooted, with two wooden barrels. The barrels are tied together and she has them resting on her head, one either side.
This afternoon we walked up all these steps to Anacapri, but I am ashamed to say, I was not carrying two barrels of water on my head.
We soon passed one of the oldest churches on the island dedicated to San Costanzo, patron saint of Capri.
The church originally had twelve columns of cipolin marble, but three were removed and taken to the Royal palace at Caserta, to be replaced with columns of granite. I wonder how the congregation viewed this at the time. They could have felt proud or disgusted, it’s difficult to say. I think I know what people would say if something similar were to happen today.
Tortoise Travel 